Before y’all send out a search party for my travel blog, I thought I’d drop by with a wee update.
As some of you know, I joined three other travel writers—Jennifer Bain, Darcy Rhyno and Carolyn Heller—in producing content last year for a new Lonely Planet guidebook on Atlantic Canada to be published this spring. My focus was to write the chapter on New Brunswick, my home for more than 25 years now.
I was pumped to write for Lonely Planet, my favourite guidebook series, one known for giving travellers no-nonsense info on destinations as well as great recommendations for experiences. It was especially cool to be co-authoring the book on the heels of the publication’s 50th anniversary. Since launching Lonely Planet in 1973, British couple Maureen and Tony Wheeler have published hundreds of guidebooks on locales around the world. (Their enterprise is now owned by Red Ventures media company.)
I spent much of last May and June doing research across the province, travelling for weeks at a time to better understand each region, its unique history, its people and stuff visitors might like to explore in each area. From Moncton to McAdam, Grand Barachois to Grand Falls, Elsipogtog to Edmundston, Fundy to Florenceville and all points in between, it was the adventure of a lifetime.
I loved revisiting places I’d travelled to over the past few decades but especially enjoyed trapsing around new-to-me destinations such as Grand Manan, New River Beach, the Kingston Peninsula and Miscou Island. So much beauty and so many interesting, friendly New Brunswickers happy to chat!
Those who follow me on social media know that one of my most memorable experiences on the road came in the north-central part of the province. Ahead of a visit to Mount Carleton Provincial Park, I’d booked a night at Les Chalets Restigouche in Kedgwick River.
Not long after opening the door to my lovely log cabin, property co-owner Bass Hodgson—who knew I was writing for Lonely Planet—stopped by and offered to take me for a spin in his side-by-side vehicle. I jumped at the chance for only my second-ever ride in an off-road vehicle. (Can you really call yourself a Maritimer if you’ve never been on an ATV?)
With Bass at the helm of the side by side, I buckled up for an exciting sunset expedition along bumpy roads and muddy trails. My chauffeur and I kept our eyes glued to the woods in hopes of spotting wildlife I could photograph.
“There!” he exclaimed about 15 minutes into our trek, pointing to a distant speck and bringing the vehicle to a halt. Before I barely had time to take off my seatbelt, Bass was running through the thick brush at roadside, occasionally making odd vocalizations to what I assumed was a moose. I attempted to follow his swift, stealthy movements, wishing I’d done some cardio prep before this unexpected tracking mission.
Alas, we were unable to catch another glimpse of the animal on that particular pursuit. But before we returned to home base, I had my moose! Though dimming light and the lack of a telephoto lens made for a poor photo of the beautiful beast, it was still a thrill to see. In fact, we spotted FOUR moose during the evening as well as two busy beavers, three fluffy rabbits, a spectacular partridge and other birdlife galore.
I fell asleep that night with an ear-to-ear grin.
There were a multitude of other ‘pinch-me’ moments during my New Brunswick tour and so much learning. I’m immensely grateful for the opportunity to become more familiar with the province’s rich history and cultural mix. I’m especially thankful to have had the chance to visit some New Brunswick First Nations. I think we all have a responsibility to better understand our Indigenous peoples and harms they have experienced, while also supporting healthy communities today.
Books and websites told me the Maliseet (Wolastoqiyik), Mi’kmaq and Passamaquoddy were the first to inhabit this province. But it was through conversations with elders and members of these communities—on nature walks, heritage tours and while I watched bannock being made in hot sand—that I really began to grasp their sacred ties to the land and creatures. I came away with a desire to learn more, respect more.
Similarly, through visits to museums, churches and other landmarks, and thanks to many wonderful chats, I gained a clearer insight into the history of the Acadians, their achievements and their resilience. It certainly gave me a better appreciation as to why so many work so hard to maintain New Brunswick’s status as Canada’s only bilingual province.
Every day of my research journey seemed to reveal another tidbit of knowledge about those who came before us, whether the Loyalists, the Scots, the Irish or the many others who helped shape this province. Of course, I also witnessed the tremendous growth in cultural diversity during my travels and had a chance to talk to folks from many parts of the globe who now reside here.
What’s ahead for this travel writer?
I’m working on some new stories and looking forward to some special summer events. One is an annual conference of accredited Canadian travel writers—the Travel Media Association of Canada—set this year for St. John’s, Newfoundland. The highlight for me will be a post-conference tour entitled, “Hike Your Arse Off in Western Newfoundland.” Fingers crossed that neither that body part nor any of the rest of me will be adversely affected, especially since both of my daughters have weddings later this summer.
Whether you have upcoming adventures in Atlantic Canada or points beyond, happy trails!
