There’s nothing like a girls’ road trip to cure the January blahs, and Halifax—with its Maritime charm and vibrant culture—is a terrific destination. About a three-hour drive from Moncton, the Nova Scotia capital is a familiar spot for me, filled with cherished memories from my university days at King’s and Dalhousie, and my early career as a reporter at The Halifax Chronicle Herald. (Fun fact: I even met and married my husband there!)
Hitting the Road
With my bag packed and the car gassed up, I set off to pick up my gal pals and hit the highway. The drive flew by thanks to dry roads, hot drinks and non-stop chatter. An hour and a half later, we made our first stop at Masstown Market, a staple for any road trip to Halifax from New Brunswick. After perusing the Market’s selection of home goods and women’s clothing, we bought some fresh sandwiches and were back on the road. (I may still be dreaming about that cozy coat I left behind!)
Exploring the Halifax Waterfront
When we reached Dartmouth, we crossed the Angus L. Macdonald Bridge and headed straight for the Halifax waterfront. A brisk walk along the wooden boardwalk from Pier 21 helped us stretch our legs and take in the sights along the water’s edge, such as unique sculptures in the newer Queen’s Marque district. As we sauntered along, the sparkling waters of Halifax Harbour were relatively quiet with the exception of a city ferry. Georges Island—a historic fortification now part of Parks Canada—sat proudly in the distance, reminding us to pay it a visit in the summer months. Even though seasonal shops on the waterfront were shuttered, a multitude of year-round businesses in the waterfront area were open. Posh in Historic Properties was one and offered a quirky variety of goodies.
Sweet and Scented Adventures
A quick stop at Peace by Chocolate provided a sugar hit before we were off for some fun at The 7 Virtues, a fragrance atelier founded by dynamic entrepreneur Barb Stegemann. Known for her ethically sourced, vegan and cruelty-free perfumes, Stegemann has turned her Halifax-based brand into a massive success. Did you see her on Dragon’s Den? Her ethically sourced fragrances are now carried by Sephora in Canada and the U.S.—more than 1,500 stores globally. Wow!
Though Stegemann wasn’t in town during our visit, her knowledgeable staff guided us through the unique process of designing our own signature scents. We then walked along various scent stations, spraying a bit of each perfume on blotters and noted our favourites. From there, we sat at a worktable and used plastic pipettes to deposit chosen scents from apothecary jars into our own 50-ml glass bottle.
Since the brand’s perfumes are designed to blend together, you don’t have to worry about messing up your mix. Staff provide tips on volumes and help adjust scents so you get exactly what you want through the process, which takes about an hour.
I blended Amber Woods, Coconut Sun, Santal Vanille and Candied Lychee to create my fragrance, which I named “Joy.” The $127 session (plus tax) was worth every penny, offering not only a bespoke perfume but unforgettable memories.
A Taste of Paris in Halifax
Next, we stopped at nearby Café Lunette for a Parisian-inspired late lunch. Smoked salmon crepes and mimosas hit the spot, as did the finale: a heavenly crème brûlée. Refreshed and recharged, we were ready for the evening’s entertainment.
Lights, Camera, Laughs: This Hour Has 22 Minutes
A highlight of our trip was attending a live taping of CBC’s long-running comedy series This Hour Has 22 Minutes. Tickets are free and highly sought after, so I was thrilled to nab some just after Christmas. (Pro tip: Get tickets via the show’s newsletter, which you can subscribe to here.)
My group of five gal pals (and one pal’s hubby!) gathered about an hour before the show at its taping venue, the Lighthouse Arts Centre on Argyle Street, the former World Trade and Convention Centre. We had drinks and goofed around with cardboard cutouts of the cast before showtime. Staff directed us to seats and a local standup comedian revved things up with some lively crowd banter.
Soon, the cast appeared to thunderous applause. Mark Critch, Trent McClellan, Aba Amuquandoh, Stacey McGunnigle and Chris Wilson seemed even funnier in person, tossing out witty quips between the taped segments. The show itself was hilarious! My pals and I were in stitches as the comics tackled the week’s news via sardonic sketches and biting parodies, delivering laugh after laugh. Meeting the stars afterward was icing on the cake.
A Cozy End to the Day
We wrapped up the day with girl talk back at the charming Brewery Park Hotel. Featuring contactless check-in, the boutique property is located on Agricola Street in Halifax’s thriving North End and is part of the Brewery Park complex, a cool hub featuring businesses such as a coffee shop and record store. We didn’t have time to check those out but my crew thoroughly enjoyed our two suites, each spacious and bright with fresh decor, modern touches and a well-appointed kitchenette.
Bliss at Bliss!
After a good night’s sleep, we headed to Bliss Caffeine Bar, a sweet South Park Street eatery owned by Michelle MacDonald, a friend’s niece. We would later discover Bliss lived up to its name when we devoured our purchases—scumptious “poptarts” and “cinnamuffins”—on the road. Bravo, Michelle!
Going old school—with a little bling for good measure
For a little nostalgia, we made tracks for the Ardmore Tea Room on Quinpool Road. As usual, it did not disappoint, with hearty plates and unbeatable prices, both worth the short wait.
Fully caffeinated and nourished, we drove to the Halifax Shopping Centre for a browse before hitting the road again. I’m a sucker for bling and modelled a few sparkly numbers for my personal-stylist wannabes at ZARA. The sequined-mini-and-thigh-high-boot combo in the image below had mixed reviews but I’m thilled to report the faux fur jacket made the cut.
Halifax: A Blend of Past and Present
It’s wild to think back to the early ’90s when I was a city hall reporter and compare Halifax to the bustling urban centre it is today. Happily, efforts are still being made to blend the present with the past as growth continues and the population tops more than 450,000. The beautiful waterfront, historic landmarks and thriving arts scene make it one of my favourite destinations year-round and a perfect one for a gals’ getaway. Our trip was a reminder of why this city holds such a special place in my heart—and that it’s always worth a visit.
